Tsunami (redirect from Tsunami wave train) devastated by a huge wave. As the tsunami approaches the coast and the waters become shallow, wave shoaling compresses the wave and its speed decreases... 63 KB (7,339 words) - 11:14, 18 February 2024 |
town in the United States Wave shoaling, the change of wave height for sea waves propagating into shallow water Shoaling and schooling, ways that fish... 880 bytes (151 words) - 22:00, 10 September 2014 |
mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is often denoted as wave setup, including both increase... 9 KB (1,115 words) - 07:11, 17 February 2024 |
shoaling zone, surf zone and swash zone. In the shoaling zone, the wave nonlinearity increases due to the decreasing depth and the sinusoidal waves approaching... 15 KB (1,869 words) - 04:06, 28 November 2023 |
Diffraction is one of the wave effects which can be described with Airy wave theory. Further, by using the WKBJ approximation, wave shoaling and refraction can... 49 KB (5,228 words) - 06:22, 11 May 2023 |
Trochoidal wave Tsunami megatsunami Undertow Ursell number Wave action Wave base Wave height Wave nonlinearity Wave power Wave radar Wave setup Wave shoaling Wave... 1 KB (119 words) - 00:52, 23 May 2023 |
This is a list of wave topics. Contents: Top 0–9 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z... 10 KB (37 words) - 10:52, 7 November 2023 |
Ocean (section Waves and swell) crests closer together and increases the waves' height, which is called wave shoaling. When the ratio of the wave's height to the water depth increases above... 127 KB (17,502 words) - 04:54, 13 March 2024 |
long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer. Wave shoaling – Effect by which surface waves entering shallower water change in wave height The Maury Project:... 2 KB (225 words) - 19:04, 14 January 2024 |
dynamics, an edge wave is a surface gravity wave fixed by refraction against a rigid boundary, often a shoaling beach. Progressive edge waves travel along... 2 KB (151 words) - 23:46, 14 August 2022 |
ocean surface waves approach shore, they get taller and break, forming the foamy, bubbly surface called surf. The region of breaking waves defines the surf... 4 KB (430 words) - 19:56, 7 March 2024 |
The wave base, in physical oceanography, is the maximum depth at which a water wave's passage causes significant water motion. At water depths deeper... 3 KB (429 words) - 13:56, 29 October 2023 |
Surf break (redirect from Big wave point breaks) break, or big wave break) is a permanent (or semi-permanent) obstruction such as a coral reef, rock, shoal, or headland that causes a wave to break, forming... 32 KB (4,514 words) - 15:51, 13 February 2024 |
foam Shoal (Peresyp) Steep coast Submergent coastline Surf break Surf zone Surge channel Swash Undertow Volcanic arc Wave-cut platform Wave shoaling Wind... 13 KB (1,356 words) - 18:20, 15 March 2024 |
Green's law (category Water waves) modelling of long shoaling waves on a beach, with "long" meaning wavelengths in excess of about twenty times the mean water depth. Tsunamis shoal (change their... 17 KB (2,631 words) - 23:15, 14 August 2022 |
strongest in the surf zone, where the water is shallow and the waves are high due to shoaling. In popular usage, the word undertow is often misapplied to... 12 KB (1,338 words) - 15:59, 17 May 2023 |