waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water...
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The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the...
37 KB (4,764 words) - 14:52, 24 May 2024
gravity waves in deeper water have a larger phase speed than in shallower water. In contrast with the behavior of gravity waves, capillary waves (i.e. only...
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Shallow water may refer to: Waves and shallow water Shallow water equations Shallow water marine environment Shallow Water (album) Shallow Water, Kansas...
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in trochoidal wave theory. Wind waves are thus a combination of transversal and longitudinal waves. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth...
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In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the...
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the simulation of water waves in shallow seas and harbours. While the Boussinesq approximation is applicable to fairly long waves – that is, when the...
20 KB (2,509 words) - 19:27, 25 December 2022
because wave heights are amplified in the region of shallower water (because the group velocity is lower there). See also waves and shallow water. There...
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of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is...
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wave. (e.g. ) Upper shoreface — above wave base Lower shoreface — below wave base Airy wave theory Dispersion (water waves) Waves and shallow water R...
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wave height to water depth (for waves in shallow water), and wave height to wavelength (for waves in deep water). Airy wave theory uses a potential flow...
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Camassa and Darryl Holm as a bi-Hamiltonian model for waves in shallow water, and in this context the parameter κ is positive and the solitary wave solutions...
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scientific controlled waves in the same facility. Water tunnel (hydrodynamic) Airy wave theory Ocean waves Ripple tank Shallow water equations Hughes, Steven...
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Tsunami (redirect from Tsunami waves)
generated by the displacement of water from a large event. Tsunami waves do not resemble normal undersea currents or sea waves because their wavelength is...
63 KB (7,369 words) - 22:12, 27 August 2024
Wavelength (redirect from Wave length)
(for example, vacuum, air, or water) that a wave travels through. Examples of waves are sound waves, light, water waves and periodic electrical signals...
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Physical oceanography (section Planetary waves)
called tidal waves, were renamed because they are not related to the tides. They are regarded as shallow-water waves, or waves in water with a depth less...
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Ripple tank (section Plane waves)
ripple tank is a shallow glass tank of water used to demonstrate the basic properties of waves. It is a specialized form of a wave tank. The ripple tank...
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gravity waves generated by ocean waves of shorter periods. The amplitude of infragravity waves is most relevant in shallow water, in particular along coastlines...
9 KB (1,027 words) - 03:49, 8 November 2023
gravity waves that are within the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities) are called internal waves. Wind-generated waves on the...
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Upper shoreface (category Wave mechanics)
wave with a 2 feet (0.61 m) wavelength would be moving the water (barely) at the bottom. Dispersion (water waves) Lower shoreface Waves and shallow water...
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Rip current (category Bodies of water)
of the tide, when the water is shallow enough to cause the waves to break over a sand bar, but deep enough for the broken wave to flow over the bar. In...
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periodic wave of permanent form, the term is also used in connection with standing waves and even random waves. The examples below describe Stokes waves under...
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Well (redirect from Shallow well)
can easily reach shallow sources and contamination of the supply by pathogens or chemical contaminants needs to be avoided. Well water typically contains...
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dominating gravity and viscous forces. Waves propagating across a Rollin film are governed by the same equation as gravity waves in shallow water, but rather...
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Undersea mountain range (category Coastal and oceanic landforms)
ridge. In contrast, if formed by past above-water volcanism, they are known as a seamount chain. The largest and best known undersea mountain range is a mid-ocean...
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Korteweg–De Vries equation (redirect from Non-linear wave mechanics)
mathematical model of waves on shallow water surfaces. It is particularly notable as the prototypical example of an integrable PDE and exhibits many of the...
24 KB (3,125 words) - 20:50, 8 July 2024
was introduced as an alternative model for small amplitude long waves in shallow water moving mainly in the x direction in 2+1 space. ∂ x ( ∂ t u + u ∂...
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landslide and a large man-made explosion that produces low-frequency acoustic energy. Seismic waves are studied by seismologists, who record the waves using...
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(also called: wave flume) Ripple tank, a shallow glass tank of water used in schools and colleges to demonstrate the basic properties of waves This disambiguation...
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today mostly corals and green algae, that need sunlight for photosynthesis and thus live in the euphotic zone (i.e., shallow water environments in which...
32 KB (3,833 words) - 12:03, 28 November 2023