• waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water...
    2 KB (225 words) - 19:04, 14 January 2024
  • gravity waves in deeper water have a larger phase speed than in shallower water. In contrast with the behavior of gravity waves, capillary waves (i.e. only...
    30 KB (3,374 words) - 02:45, 29 May 2024
  • Thumbnail for Shallow water equations
    The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the...
    37 KB (4,764 words) - 14:52, 24 May 2024
  • Shallow water may refer to: Waves and shallow water Shallow water equations Shallow water marine environment Shallow Water (album) Shallow Water, Kansas...
    405 bytes (74 words) - 03:44, 5 September 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wind wave
    in trochoidal wave theory. Wind waves are thus a combination of transversal and longitudinal waves. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth...
    49 KB (6,196 words) - 21:50, 31 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wave shoaling
    In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the...
    12 KB (1,265 words) - 08:42, 28 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Boussinesq approximation (water waves)
    the simulation of water waves in shallow seas and harbours. While the Boussinesq approximation is applicable to fairly long waves – that is, when the...
    20 KB (2,509 words) - 19:27, 25 December 2022
  • of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is...
    12 KB (1,375 words) - 20:33, 29 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Breaking wave
    because wave heights are amplified in the region of shallower water (because the group velocity is lower there). See also waves and shallow water. There...
    10 KB (1,280 words) - 00:05, 1 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wave base
    wave. (e.g. ) Upper shoreface — above wave base Lower shoreface — below wave base Airy wave theory Dispersion (water waves) Waves and shallow water R...
    3 KB (429 words) - 13:56, 29 October 2023
  • Thumbnail for Wave tank
    scientific controlled waves in the same facility. Water tunnel (hydrodynamic) Airy wave theory Ocean waves Ripple tank Shallow water equations Hughes, Steven...
    5 KB (537 words) - 19:26, 17 December 2022
  • wave height to water depth (for waves in shallow water), and wave height to wavelength (for waves in deep water). Airy wave theory uses a potential flow...
    49 KB (5,476 words) - 10:03, 9 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Camassa–Holm equation
    Camassa and Darryl Holm as a bi-Hamiltonian model for waves in shallow water, and in this context the parameter κ is positive and the solitary wave solutions...
    52 KB (5,576 words) - 12:04, 8 September 2024
  • Thumbnail for Wavelength
    Wavelength (redirect from Wave length)
    (for example, vacuum, air, or water) that a wave travels through. Examples of waves are sound waves, light, water waves and periodic electrical signals...
    35 KB (4,288 words) - 13:01, 4 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Tsunami
    Tsunami (redirect from Tsunami waves)
    generated by the displacement of water from a large event. Tsunami waves do not resemble normal undersea currents or sea waves because their wavelength is...
    63 KB (7,369 words) - 22:12, 27 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Physical oceanography
    called tidal waves, were renamed because they are not related to the tides. They are regarded as shallow-water waves, or waves in water with a depth less...
    31 KB (3,737 words) - 19:27, 12 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Ripple tank
    ripple tank is a shallow glass tank of water used to demonstrate the basic properties of waves. It is a specialized form of a wave tank. The ripple tank...
    7 KB (909 words) - 09:13, 1 April 2024
  • Thumbnail for Gravity wave
    gravity waves that are within the body of the water (such as between parts of different densities) are called internal waves. Wind-generated waves on the...
    18 KB (2,535 words) - 20:30, 11 September 2024
  • Thumbnail for Upper shoreface
    Upper shoreface (category Wave mechanics)
    wave with a 2 feet (0.61 m) wavelength would be moving the water (barely) at the bottom. Dispersion (water waves) Lower shoreface Waves and shallow water...
    2 KB (213 words) - 06:49, 13 November 2023
  • Thumbnail for Infragravity wave
    gravity waves generated by ocean waves of shorter periods. The amplitude of infragravity waves is most relevant in shallow water, in particular along coastlines...
    9 KB (1,027 words) - 03:49, 8 November 2023
  • Thumbnail for Stokes wave
    periodic wave of permanent form, the term is also used in connection with standing waves and even random waves. The examples below describe Stokes waves under...
    75 KB (8,189 words) - 15:43, 25 June 2024
  • Thumbnail for Shoal
    Shoal (category Coastal and oceanic landforms)
    important. Wave shoaling is the process when surface waves move towards shallow water, such as a beach, they slow down, their wave height increases and the distance...
    12 KB (1,537 words) - 21:25, 4 March 2024
  • Thumbnail for Well
    Well (redirect from Shallow well)
    can easily reach shallow sources and contamination of the supply by pathogens or chemical contaminants needs to be avoided. Well water typically contains...
    48 KB (6,094 words) - 09:23, 11 September 2024
  • Thumbnail for Korteweg–De Vries equation
    mathematical model of waves on shallow water surfaces. It is particularly notable as the prototypical example of an integrable PDE and exhibits many of the...
    24 KB (3,125 words) - 20:50, 8 July 2024
  • Thumbnail for Rollin film
    dominating gravity and viscous forces. Waves propagating across a Rollin film are governed by the same equation as gravity waves in shallow water, but rather...
    4 KB (518 words) - 14:13, 7 April 2024
  • Thumbnail for Seismic wave
    landslide and a large man-made explosion that produces low-frequency acoustic energy. Seismic waves are studied by seismologists, who record the waves using...
    21 KB (2,384 words) - 22:58, 28 August 2024
  • Thumbnail for Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation
    was introduced as an alternative model for small amplitude long waves in shallow water moving mainly in the x direction in 2+1 space. ∂ x ( ∂ t u + u ∂...
    12 KB (1,461 words) - 13:32, 18 June 2024
  • Thumbnail for Rip current
    Rip current (category Bodies of water)
    of the tide, when the water is shallow enough to cause the waves to break over a sand bar, but deep enough for the broken wave to flow over the bar. In...
    20 KB (2,638 words) - 07:09, 12 September 2024
  • Undersea mountain range (category Coastal and oceanic landforms)
    ridge. In contrast, if formed by past above-water volcanism, they are known as a seamount chain. The largest and best known undersea mountain range is a mid-ocean...
    1 KB (119 words) - 00:52, 23 May 2023
  • (also called: wave flume) Ripple tank, a shallow glass tank of water used in schools and colleges to demonstrate the basic properties of waves This disambiguation...
    776 bytes (137 words) - 23:10, 13 September 2023