waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water...

The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the...

gravity waves in deeper water have a larger phase speed than in shallower water. In contrast with the behavior of gravity waves, capillary waves (i.e. only...

Shallow water may refer to: Shallow Water (album) Shallow Water, Kansas, unincorporated community, United States Waves and shallow water Shallow water...

in trochoidal wave theory. Wind waves are thus a combination of transversal and longitudinal waves. When waves propagate in shallow water, (where the depth...

In fluid dynamics, wave shoaling is the effect by which surface waves, entering shallower water, change in wave height. It is caused by the fact that the...

the simulation of water waves in shallow seas and harbours. While the Boussinesq approximation is applicable to fairly long waves – that is, when the...

of water by the waves in the zone above the wave troughs. The undertow's flow velocities are generally strongest in the surf zone, where the water is...

because wave heights are amplified in the region of shallower water (because the group velocity is lower there). See also waves and shallow water. There...

wave height to water depth (for waves in shallow water), and wave height to wavelength (for waves in deep water). Airy wave theory uses a potential flow...

wave. (e.g. ) Upper shoreface — above wave base Lower shoreface — below wave base Airy wave theory Dispersion (water waves) Waves and shallow water R...

scientific controlled waves in the same facility. Water tunnel (hydrodynamic) Airy wave theory Ocean waves Ripple tank Shallow water equations Hughes, Steven...

generated by the displacement of water from a large event. Tsunami waves do not resemble normal undersea currents or sea waves because their wavelength is...

(for example, vacuum, air, or water) that a wave travels through. Examples of waves are sound waves, light, water waves and periodic electrical signals...

Camassa and Darryl Holm as a bi-Hamiltonian model for waves in shallow water, and in this context the parameter κ is positive and the solitary wave solutions...

of the tide, when the water is shallow enough to cause the waves to break over a sand bar, but deep enough for the broken wave to flow over the bar. In...

wave with a 2 feet (0.61 m) wavelength would be moving the water (barely) at the bottom. Dispersion (water waves) Lower shoreface Waves and shallow water...

called tidal waves, were renamed because they are not related to the tides. They are regarded as shallow-water waves, or waves in water with a depth less...

ripple tank is a shallow glass tank of water used to demonstrate the basic properties of waves. It is a specialized form of a wave tank. The ripple tank...

Wind-generated waves on the water surface are examples of gravity waves, as are tsunamis and ocean tides. The period of wind-generated gravity waves on the free surface...

coined cnoidal waves. They are used to describe surface gravity waves of fairly long wavelength, as compared to the water depth. The cnoidal wave solutions...

mathematical model of waves on shallow water surfaces. It is particularly notable as the prototypical example of an integrable PDE and exhibits many of the...

can easily reach shallow sources and contamination of the supply by pathogens or chemical contaminants needs to be avoided. Well water typically contains...

waves of permanent form, the term is also used in connection with standing waves and even for random waves. The examples below describe Stokes waves under...

gravity waves generated by ocean waves of shorter periods. The amplitude of infragravity waves is most relevant in shallow water, in particular along coastlines...

dominating gravity and viscous forces. Waves propagating across a Rollin film are governed by the same equation as gravity waves in shallow water, but rather...

depths in tropical waters, but deep water and cold water coral reefs exist on smaller scales in other areas. Shallow tropical coral reefs have declined...

other waves such as sound waves and water waves also experience refraction. How much a wave is refracted is determined by the change in wave speed and the...

important. Wave shoaling is the process when surface waves move towards shallow water, such as a beach, they slow down, their wave height increases and the distance...

today mostly corals and green algae, that need sunlight for photosynthesis and thus live in the euphotic zone (i.e., shallow water environments in which...